Why Empress?

For many women, marriage is sacred. Getting out of one is the hardest thing we have to do. Family is important, immediate family is almost a resources for a divorcee to fall into. They may get their mum or dad shoulder to cry on, a comfort place they can feel safe and loved. For me, it was a very different story. I do not have any immediate family in Tasmania. I have 1 cousin in Sydney. He is a cousin that I didn't know I had for quite some time, even when I was living in Sydney. Amazing right.. not. So, I must toughen up. I made the decision, I must move forward with it. I didn't tell my mum that I have separated with my ex husband for almost a year. Well, the reason was she is so far away. Is bad enough that we are at a great distance apart, I don't feel that breaking such news to her will help me or her. She will only ended up worry sick about what am I going to do here all alone. I won't do that to her. What she doesn't know will not hurt her. 

Well, I am only human. Like many, we need an outlet of distraction. In order to move forward, some uses shopping spree (just what most woman would do), or started looking for a companion, or  the ones that battling hard with their anxiety may use alcohol or recreation drugs and that's very unfortunate. For me, I have chosen art. There is no right or wrong in the form of art. I believe it is a purely an expression. Art is a language that does not need to be translated, it is a tool to relieve, and escape without having to run away. 

Yes, let's make a paper dress for "Paper on Skin" !!!!!

Empress At Forbidden City, is the start of my fully committed wearable art journey. I have created many wearable art for editorial in the past. I have uses many unconventional material such as bubble wrap, rubbish bags, checker plates, nuts and bolts, car mat, newspaper, fresh flowers, fresh fruits, wood, various type of fabrics, chandeliers, feathers and the list goes on and on.. When I create for editorial, the craftsmanship can be very forgiving because we have this technology called PHOTOSHOP. And it usually doesn't take me lot of time. A few hours is usually what I would spend to complete an outfit.

Competing in a wearable art competition is different story. I must pay attention to my story of the piece as well as the finishing. I have so much to learn. Being a single mum sometimes can be overwhelming but then I also feel accomplished (in a way). I have always loved Chinese history. Woman empowerment speaks to me "loudly" at that time. I want my piece to tell a story about Woman Empowerment. So, when I am due to submit my draft for Paper On Skin 2018, I have used Empress Wu Zetian as my main object in my creations. Her story is inspiring. The Chinese recognised her as one of the most ruthless ruler in Chinese history. But during her reign or power, she also managed to rule the country into success. Making her one of the most powerful and influential woman in the court during Tang Dynasty. Isn't this the best example of woman empowerment? 

This Paper on Skin journey is utterly important to me. Is almost like a "jumpstart" process to me. I have stopped creating for quite some time. I wasn't real sure if I still got it. But I keep telling myself, if I don't give it a very good go, I will  be forever lost. I kept telling myself that over and over again. I need to accomplished something. I had a job as disability support worker at the time too. My working hours are always varies and I have my children care on a week on and week off basis. So, again, time is a luxury for me. I must use them wisely. As this is my debut, and possibly my last (if I failed) I have decided to go ALL OUT. I will do anything I can to make my piece POP.

I have watched this Chinese tv series that were made about Empress Wu Zetian. That series has over 100 episodes. It tells the story of Wu Zetian from her young age until the end of her reign. Chinese superstar Fan Bing Bing play the role of Wu Zetian, Oh my... she is so beautiful. According to the news, this particular set of series managed to attract some big investors that has invested a lot of money into it. So, the producer and director has decided to use a big portion of the money into costumes designs and tailoring. And that has made the series very popular. The costumes department has designed and tailored a total of 260 outfits for Fan Bing Bing alone in her role. https://cfen.si/2014/02/24/fan-bingbing-has-260-outfits-as-the-empress-of-china/ . Yes you read correctly, it is 260 outfits in 1 tv series for 1 role that has cost hundreds of million RMB. And there is 1 particular dress that I was very drawn into.. I am almost obsessed with it, that I think I can recreate it with paper. 

Empress of China series trailer

Empress Wu Zetian during her coronation as the Queen/Empress. 

Empress Wu Zetian with the King/Emperor Lee Zhi. 

It took me a while to find the right type of paper that is fabric like. Paper that is soft but strong. I came across a paper company called Kami Paper in Melbourne. They stocked some of the most beautiful momigami paper or also known as mulberry paper that was made in Thailand. I ordered a batch and tested it, I find that those paper are the perfect fit. I also drove down to Hobart which is about 3.5 hours drive from where I live to an art store called AdArt where I managed to sourced some beautiful coated mulberry paper imported from Canada. 

And the making journey begun. My goal is to recreate, but not copying 100%. Yet, I would still like people to recognise my piece when I completed it "ohhh that's the outfits from that Chinese series..."

During the creation process, I have applied my sewing knowledge that I have learned from school and from my mum. My mum is a all rounder @ domestic queen. Sewing, crafting, cooking, gardening, she is good at it all. As I moving forward making the garment. I slowly learned about the do's and don'ts. I trying to stick to the competition criteria using a minimum of 80% paper to create the whole. I even made the shoes with 100% paper. And you know, that was my very first pair of paper shoes that I made. 

I usually will source my model first for any wearable art I made. I would use their face and figure as my muse. So, I chosen someone I am familiar with. She has a erotic features and skin colours. Most importantly is her look, it will suit the garment perfectly.

My gorgeous model Brooke

The entire creating process took about 300 hours or more to complete the garment. Every seconds I had spare I use it on the garment. Following are some process photos:

The robe, bustier & undergarment:

The techniques involved are:

1. Drawing dragon and phoenixes in illustrator cc.
2. Hand cut out dragon and phoenixes.
3. Papier-mache bustier.
4. Hand stitch seam with paper thread. 
5. Wire infused feathers and some other details on waist band and the back of the robe.
6. The cut of the under garment and robe were completed using the same tailoring method we use for clothing but bind with adhesive. 

The headdress; contain 12 different pieces as a whole:

As you can see in the photos above there are varieties of techniques I use to every piece. But it does comes together well. 

Not long after I completed the garment, the final gala is here. Is one of those things that I fuss around too much. Trying to make sure everything going to go as planned. You see, one of the reason why I chosen a model I knew was that she know me and worked with me before. So, she know how to deal with my anxiety or "perfectionist" kinda attitude. If it is a new model or someone that wasn't so familiar with me, I probably stress them out too much, without me actually realising I was doing that. 

Just a couple days before the finale, I managed to do a full fitting with Brooke. And while she had everything on, I quickly grab my DSLR and take a couple of snaps in my kitchen. From there, I chosen 1 image and did a photo manipulation on it. 

Didn't turn out too bad ay.. almost like the poster from the movie.. surely people will recognised this (I think).

After seeing the photos, mm..  I said to myself, no, the hair need to be bigger.. bigger is always better, right. Thanks to Brooke, put up with the weight and pain of the hairstyles I did for her. I have use 2 sets of long hair wigs, 2 sets of handmade hair bun and 6 oblong hair sponges and 2 donuts to complete the style I trying to recreate...

Thanks to photographer of the day, Grant Wells for the behind the scene photos and all the studio photos taken on the finale evening. 


... and the final looks is like this:

Ohh, at the very last minute, I have grab my eldest daughter, Summer to dress up as the "Crown Prince, Lee Hong", Wu Zetian's son to get on the stage and present her the nail guard, for extra drama. Do excused me for her outfits, I made that last minute the night before the finale, so the craftsmanship is questionable. opps..!!

And oh my.. Brooke simply looks amazing and when she was on the stage, she managed to give the spectators some "WOW" moments..

After all the long months of hard work... I do feel accomplished. I have a lot of good feedback not only from the spectators but also from the internet, who seen the snaps from the shows. I didn't win the competition. But you know, I don't compete to win. I compete to give myself a test. And I am glad I did. I have successfully found myself again. I have new directions in life and I know what I want to do and who I want to become in the future. From the bottom of my heart, I do thanked all the people who voted me as their favourite on the finale evening. I took out the public vote award sponsored by Cocoon Designs. 

Although I have completed the garment, I still feel that I have way too much to learn and to refine my craft. But Empress at Forbidden City, has put my name on the map in the Northwest Coast of Tasmania and beyond. Thanks again to all that have supported me and believe in me, without you all, I wouldn't have the courage to do this. And yes, this journey has empowered me, I have learned that if i put my heart to it, I can do it.